A chivo

We have this phrase in Argentina for when you get really rank. Olor a chivo. Goat smell. I guess goats smell bad, because the smell I attach with humans and olor a chivo is pretty awful. The thing about climbing is that you lift your arms over your head every time you move.

I climbed pretty hard last night. My regular partner and the one who came back from shoulder surgery for the first time came out. I started on a nice warm up, moved on to the wall I don't like (but I did very well on it) and then proceeded to beat on some 9s and part of a 10. When I say part of a 10, I mean that I was working very diligently and quickly to get this one 10 out that lives on a crack. I like the one hand on a hold and the other on a crack situation. It feels cool. But I couldn't figure out how to move past the crux. I couldn't get my feet high enough and the only hand hold available to me was basically garbage. But it was cool until then.

On this other 9 that I really enjoy (near the 10 crack), I have a really hard time with the last move. It's this greasy jutting out sloper thing, with a long move out to the next high hand. It's doable, but it's VERY static and takes a lot of core to keep from popping off the greasy hold. I can make it, but I haven't been able to make it with out taking, which makes me angry! I have to engage my core to keep on it, but I can't do it without hanging out for 30 seconds. Will have to work on that one.

And finally, I sent this other 9 that had been pissing me off for a while. The crux isn't necessarily that challenging, but you have to think for it - if you get the sequence wrong, you're screwed. In any case, my partner gave me excellent advice. There's a hold that you REEEEAAALLY want to hold. It's angled awkwardly, it looks like you could gaston or pinch or elbow or use your tongue on it. But the truth is, you have to ignore it and reach for the next big hold. And that's not necessarily easy, because it's a little far. But once my partner told me to ignore it, I could actually send the freaking climb. GAH!!

Probably not running today, but I'll take the dogs for a long walk in my new hiking shoes. Should be good.

12 days till vacation! WOO!